From our series “Feuer und Eis: Employees on Tour.” A first-hand account by our employee Stefanie Demmel:
Several days on the trail, many kilometers under my belt, and even more memories in my mind—as part of an informational tour, I hiked the SalzAlpenSteig from Prien am Chiemsee to Königssee in 7 days and 5 stages. The name comes from the salt that was once as valuable as gold in this region. It’s precisely this blend of history, scenery, and variety that makes the tour so special to me.
Stage 1: Prien – Marquartstein
Since Lake Chiemsee is just under an hour’s drive from my home, I set out in the morning directly from the parking lot in Prien without staying overnight. Passing the train station, the church, and the parish office, the trail leads into the forest. The SalzAlpenSteig trail markers are easy to spot right from the start, appearing repeatedly on lampposts and signs.
I reach the shore of Lake Chiemsee via the Moorweg. In the marina, numerous sailboats rock gently in the wind; a few rowboats lie on the grass along the shore—a beautiful sight even under the cloudy sky. I continue along the water’s edge toward the center of Bernau.
The trail continues through Bernau and along dirt roads toward Rottau. I could take a short detour to the Salz & Moor Museum, but since it’s raining, I decide to keep going. After passing through a stretch of forest, the trail heads downhill toward Grassau, and from there along the main road to Marquartstein. There, the Weßner Hof awaits—my destination for today.
Stage 2: Marquartstein – Ruhpolding
The Fegg taxi picks me up right on time and takes me to the Hochfellnbahn. There’s thick fog up there today, so I’m unable to enjoy the view. But that’s just part of hiking.
The descent leads through alpine meadows and forests, past a stream, until a narrow path branches off. Here I enter a section of forest called the “Fairy-Tale Forest” because of its thick moss cover. Rocks and roots are covered as if by a green blanket, and light filters through the trees in narrow strips. A real highlight of this stage. From here, the trail continues downhill toward Maiergschwendt, where the Landhotel Maiergschwendt is my destination for the day.
Stage 3: Ruhpolding – Inzell
The third day begins on asphalt heading toward Rauschberg. In the morning, clouds still hang over the hills; the sun breaks through a gap and bathes a sheep pasture in warm light, where a flock grazes peacefully—a great start to the day.
Shortly after reaching the edge of the forest, it’s worth taking a short detour to Taubensee, which is as smooth as glass in this weather. After that, the trail gets steeper. At a fork in the trail, I accidentally turn off too early—I was just so caught up in the flow of the hike. Still, I make up for it by taking a detour to the lookout point, and it’s worth it.
The forest road ahead leads past the newly renovated Fahrriesboden Chapel, which invites me to stop just before the end of this leg; shortly after that, I reach Gasthof Schmelz, my destination for this leg.
After coffee and apple strudel, I take the local bus to Inzell. There, I visit the parish church, whose interior—with its golden altars and ceiling paintings—is much more elaborately decorated than one would expect from the outside; it’s a lovely way to end the day.
Stage 4: Inzell – Bad Reichenhall
Across meadows, through woods and marshes, I reach the Weißbach Falls, the first highlight of the day. The ascent begins at the Mauthäusl Inn, past the popular Höllenbachalm, and continues through the woods. The descent that follows is narrow and steep, but the view of Lake Thumsee gets better with every step—the water glows a vibrant green-turquoise. At the shore, I decide on the spur of the moment that I, too, have to take a quick dip in the cool water—it was one of the best decisions of the day.
What I especially love about this day: a little detail along the way. Scattered along the forest path are tiny little houses perched on tree trunks and roots—a hat shop, a bakery, a small playground, and a few other artisan workshops. I’m as excited as a little kid whenever I find a new stop—the little houses were designed and decorated with such attention to detail.
Soon I’ll reach Amilienruhe, where I’ll catch my first glimpse of Bad Reichenhall. The path leads steeply downhill, past the Predigtstuhlbahn, into the city center.
Stage 5: Bad Reichenhall – Königssee
The trail climbs steadily across meadows and forest paths; at one point, it winds its way over thick, exposed roots. Between the trees, the first views of the Hochkalter and Watzmann come into view. A narrow section requires sure footing, but is easy to navigate thanks to the handrail.
After the first descent, there’s a small chapel right along the trail—a good spot for a short break before heading back uphill toward Grünstein. After about four hours, I reach the Grünstein Hut. Before taking a break, I decide to climb the summit as well; after ten to fifteen minutes, I’m standing atop the Grünstein. From there, you have a sweeping view of Berchtesgaden, the Watzmann, and part of Lake Königssee, which glimmers green between the mountains. A sign at the lookout point features a Bavarian saying: “Up there on the summit, I always say, it’s much nicer than down here in the valley.” That’s true.
Back at the hut, I’m treated to some Kaiserschmarrn—well deserved. Then the descent begins, which I manage in just under an hour. At a normal pace, you should plan on about an hour and a half; some sections are really steep. At Königssee, I cool my legs off in the water and enjoy the view before taking the bus back to the hotel in Berchtesgaden.
Flexibility on the go—a real plus
What I really appreciate about this tour is that you don’t have to complete every stage entirely on foot. You can shorten individual sections by taking the bus and mountain railway—for example, the challenging final stage to Königssee via the Grünstein parking lot. This makes the tour manageable even when the weather or your energy levels aren’t quite up to par, and it even leaves time for a boat ride on Königssee.
Why the SalzAlpenSteig is so popular
- Scenic diversity: from Lake Chiemsee through marshes and forests to the peaks around Berchtesgaden
- Easy navigation: consistent markings on trees, fences, and signs, as well as detailed stage descriptions and digital guidance via Komoot
- Variety: from peaceful riverside paths to little surprises like the dwarf village in the forest
- Cultural Highlights: Chapels and churches along the route, such as in Inzell
- Enjoyment: great places to stop for a bite to eat and cozy accommodations at the end of each stage
The SalzAlpenSteig is designed for anyone who enjoys multi-day hikes and wants to experience both nature and a bit of Bavarian history along the way.
My tip
On the second and third stages, it’s a good idea to bring a packed lunch, as there are fewer places to stop for a bite to eat along the way. Sure-footedness is helpful, but you don’t really need to have a head for heights. If you don’t want to walk the entire last stage, you can take a shortcut by bus to the Grünstein parking lot.
Conclusion
The SalzAlpenSteig trail from Chiemsee to Königssee is a varied long-distance hike with manageable challenges and many small highlights along the way.
A tour that shows how history, scenery, and a delicious serving of Kaiserschmarrn go together surprisingly well.
https://www.feuer-eis-touristik.de/tour/salz-alpen-7t/
You can experience the SalzAlpenSteig not only as a classic 7‑day hiking trip, but also in other appealing variations:
- SalzAlpenSteig Short Trip – A Compact Getaway Along the Most Beautiful Stages
- SalzAlpenSteig I – from Prien am Chiemsee to Königssee
- SalzAlpenSteig II – From Hallein to Hallstatt Through the Salzkammergut
- SalzAlpenSteig I and II – the entire route from Chiemsee to Hallstatt